Roslyn still has soul - "Northern Exposure" town hasn't lost its edge - 2007 Everett, Wash. Published: Sunday, September 23, 2007 Roslyn still has soul A 6,300-acre luxury resort moves in, but the 'Northern Exposure' town hasn't lost its edge By Sue Frause Special to The Herald When the TV show "Northern Exposure" hit the tube in 1990, it was a big hit and put the town of Roslyn on the map. Now, more than a dozen years later, fans of the popular series continue to make pilgrimages to this former coal-mining town in Washington's central Cascades. Founded in 1886 by the Northern Pacific Railroad, it is listed in the National Historic Register of Historic Places. Nick Henderson, who works at the Roslyn Museum that doubles as the town's tourist information center, says that visitors are interested in three things: "Northern Exposure," coal mining and searching for their family roots. "We have people coming from as far away as Barcelona to do the 'Northern Exposure' bit," said Henderson, a former funeral director in Cle Elum. A third-generation Roslyn boy, Henderson's grandparents had a dry goods store in town in the 1890s. Today, in addition to spending time at the museum, he acts as a Suncadia cultural resource coordinator. That's the new side of Roslyn. Suncadia is a four-season resort community being developed just outside of town on 6,300 acres. My friend Bernita and I stayed at the Inn at Suncadia, which overlooks the 18-hole Prospector Golf Course. The small inn has an upscale, earthy feel and includes 18 guest rooms and four suites, all with fireplaces. We're not golfers, so we used the inn's bicycles for a quick tour around the resort. We enjoyed dinner and breakfast at the inn's Gas Lamp Grille. The nearby Lodge at Suncadia, perched atop a 250-foot bluff overlooking the Cle Elum River and Tumble Creek Valley, is scheduled to open in 2008. The lodge features 254 rooms, a full-service spa and a swim and fitness center. It's a little bit Sun River with a touch of Whistler on the side. But back to downtown Roslyn. I'm big on walking tours, and Roslyn has a dandy little map highlighting the landmarks, available at the Roslyn Museum. The most famous is the Brick Tavern. Built in 1899, it's the oldest continually operating saloon in the state. Local clay was used to make the bricks and the running water spittoon is the only working one in the area. The nearby Roslyn Theater used to house a mortuary until it was converted to a movie house in 1972. On the back of the building is a mural of a young Marlon Brando. Today, moviegoers stay warm thanks to the wood stove that heats the building. Local resident Steve Moore, who has lived in Roslyn since 1970, said he wreaked havoc with his ham radio when it interfered with the movie theater. These days, his ham signals are no problem, and he's living in one of Roslyn's historic buildings that he bought. Although not listed on the walking tour map, the "Northern Exposure" sites are easy to find — or ask a merchant. And even though the town no longer plays host to "Northern Exposure" Moose Days, which ran from 1999 to 2004, you'll still run into people looking for signs of the show. I spotted two dudes from Texas on Pennsylvania Avenue one afternoon, taking pictures of the much-photographed mural on the side of the Roslyn Cafe. "I'm lookin' for the moose!" said fella No. 1, while the other said, "I'm lookin' for blondes." Bernita and I kept walking, looking for slices of Sicily, Alaska. KBHR Radio is located in the Northwest Improvement Company Store on Pennsylvania Avenue. "The Voice of the Last Frontier" was where Chris Stevens (John Corbett) was a DJ. The intact storefront set is visible from the street. Cicely's Gift Shop still has a sign reading Dr. Joel Fleischman (Rob Morrow) on its window. The shop and town have no shortage of "Northern Exposure" mooseabilia, including "Moose Crossing" signs and moose burgers on the menu. Another spot for a big dose of history is Roslyn Cemeteries, an easy walk from downtown. Situated on 15 acres, there are 5,000 graves included among the 26 separate ethnic, fraternal and municipal cemeteries. Here you'll find such signs as Sokol Lodge, Serbian Lodge, Masonic Lodge, Old Knights of Phythias and Red Men Lodge. And no foolin', there's even a Moose Lodge section. Heading back into town, we stopped by the Roslyn Brewing Company for an afternoon libation. Since 1990, the microbrewery has been producing both light and dark lagers, along with a nonalcoholic root beer. But suds weren't in our cards. The brewery and taproom are open only on weekends, and it was a Wednesday. Although there was a phone number to call for beer to go on a weekday. That's Roslyn. Sue Frause is a freelance writer and photographer from Whidbey Island. Getting there: From Seattle, travel east on I-90 for approximately 100 miles to Exit 80 (Roslyn/Salmon La Sac). Cle Elum-Roslyn Chamber of Commerce www.cleelumroslyn.org 509-674-5958 Roslyn Museum 203 Pennsylvania Ave. 509-649-2355 Roslyn Brewing Company 208 Pennsylvania Ave. www.roslynbrewery.com Inn at Suncadia www.innatsuncadia.com 866-904-6300 Off-season rates begin in October and range from $235-$335 Early fame Hollywood came calling to Roslyn more than a decade before Northern Exposure. In 1978, the Stanley Kramer movie "The Runner Stumbles" was filmed here, starring Dick Van Dyke and Kathleen Quinlan. Many of the scenes were shot in the Brick Tavern, which was also a popular backdrop for "Northern Exposure." © 2008The Daily Herald Co., Everett, WA Sue's words, images and commentary have appeared in the following: NEWSPAPERS   Boston Herald Calgary Herald Edmonton Journal The Everett Herald The Oregonian Ottawa Citizen Regina Leader-Post Seattle Post-Intelligencer Seattle Weekly The (Vancouver) Province Victoria Times Colonist Windsor Star Winnipeg Free Press MAGAZINES   Alaska Airlines Jewish Life & Style Northwest Business Monthly Northwest Palate Northwest Travel Seattle Bride Seattle Magazine SUN (Seattle University) TravelAge West VIA Virtuoso Life Washington Athletic Club INTERNET www.shermanstravel.com www.spas.about.com www.tangodiva.com www.vagablond.com BOOKS Northwest Best Places (Contributor) Good Food Guide to Oregon/Washington (Contributor) Fabulous Fairholme : Breakfasts & Brunches (Editor) PERSONAL BLOGS Closet Canuck Whidbey Island Life RADIO KSER, 90.7 FM, Everett, Washington (Weekly Correspondent) Around the World Travel Radio (Regular Contributor) © Copyright 2004 Sue Frause site credits