Sue Frause

Rooms With a View - Seattle Magazine - 2002

Rooms With a View 2002
Seattle magazine

Ready to get away from it all? We've found eight of the best hideaways in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska, all with splendid vistas—the perfect places to warm up and watch the winter roll on by.
By Sue Frause, Cynthia Nims, Joan Pardes and M. Susan Wilson

Schweitzer Mountain Resort
SandPoint, Idaho
By SUE FRAUSE

Drive time from Seattle: 6.5 hours

Legend has it that Schweitzer got its name from an old Swiss hermit who lived at the base of the mountains in the 1800s. He'd be shocked at the changes in the neighborhood today, but the view remains the same: spectacular.

Situated on the Idaho panhandle, overlooking the town of Sandpoint and Lake Pend Oreille, Schweitzer Mountain Resort now has three lodging choices: assorted condominiums, the 82-room Selkirk Lodge or the newly opened White Pine Lodge. Both lodges are ski-in/ski-out hostelries, but White Pine Lodge has the best vistas of Lake Pend Oreille, the Selkirks and Schweitzer Village. Its one- and two-bedroom contemporary-design condominiums all have full kitchens, fireplaces and balconies. The lodge also has a community great room with fireplace; ski lockers; small workout room with a treadmill and free weights; and access to two outdoor hot tubs (with views!). Better yet, it adjoins a deli and wine shop.

The Selkirk Lodge's newly renovated Chimney Rock Grill (208.265.0257), due at press time to open November 28, is your best bet for dining, or pick up your dinner to go from Thor's Pizza (at the base of Schweitzer Mountain Resort; 208.255.5645) or Spud's Restaurant (White Pine Lodge; 208.265.6171), with full rotisserie dinners of chicken, turkey or steak with all the trimmings.

Oh, and don't forget the skiing: With its massive bowls and jaw-dropping scenery, Schweitzer is a big, wide-open mountain with dry, Aspen-like snow—minus the crowds. Cross-country fans, don't worry: There are plenty of trails for non-downhillers. (10000 Schweitzer Mountain Road; 800.831.8810; schweitzer.com; winter rates: $129-$500)

Wickaninnish Inn
Tofino, British Columbia

Estimated travel time: 3 hours via North Vancouver Air (departs from Boeing Field King County Airport; 800.228.6608; www.northvanair.com)

At the Wickaninnish Inn, on the far northwest coast of Vancouver Island, bad weather is good. In fact, folks plan their vacations during the most tempestuous of seasons here (November through February) and hope for the perfect storm, to be viewed from one of the inn's 46 oceanfront rooms. Even if skies are sunny and the forecast clear, you'll no doubt find yourself taken down a notch or two on the stress scale by afternoons spent on your private deck with a pair of binoculars (provided in every room) for spotting birds and, if you're lucky, the occasional whale (March through May), all to the hypnotic sounds of water exploding from the tidal channels and waves meeting the rocks below.

For real indulgence, check out the inn's Ancient Cedars Spa, with an exceptional staff and nice attention to detail. Heated floors warm your feet in the spa's locker room, and there's outdoor seating for taking your pretreatment footbath (chilly types, don't fret: Spa staff will swaddle you in blankets). The spa's new private cedar cabin, for couples massage, is impressive—but, if you prefer low light (uncovered windows face the ocean), opt for a treatment in the main spa instead.

Despite the Wick's comforts, don't spend all your time indoors. Be sure to take a ride into town for some gallery hopping or drop by for a superb meal at the funky, nearby Café Pamplona (1084 Pacific Rim Highway; 250.725.1237; www.cafepamplona.com), set in a small botanical garden. Also be sure to get out and walk along nearby Chesterman Beach—rain or shine, it's sure to please. (Osprey Lane at Chesterman Beach; 800.333.4604; wickinn.com; winter rates: $220 CAN-$440 CAN)

Freestone Inn
Mazama, Washington
By SUE FRAUSE

Drive time from Seattle: 5 hours

Most of the year, traveling to the rustic refinement of Freestone Inn is a three-and-a-half-hour drive over the picturesque North Cascades Highway, though once Highway 20 is closed for the winter (generally during November) the drive becomes a more leisurely five hours long. Nestled in the high foothills on the eastern side of the Cascades, the inn's remoteness in winter is part of its charm. All rooms have stone fireplaces and balconies or patios that look out over ice-covered Freestone Lake to snow-topped trees and the Cascade Mountains just beyond. If you dare to make the dash, you can jump into the oversize hot tub along the shore of the lake for a closer perspective on this winter wonderland. It's just the thing after a day of cross-country skiing (trails are just a few strides from the lodge; classes are available daily), snowshoeing or heli-skiing. Don't miss the horse-drawn sleigh ride, which skims through the woods to a cozy cabin for cocoa afternoons or wine and cheese evenings. And, when you're ready for a full meal, the dining room features a noteworthy menu of hearty, restoring fare, and a great wine list with many Washington favorites. Whether it's outdoor adventure or relaxation you're after, a wintertime trip to Freestone Inn serves up plenty of both. (31 Early Winters Drive; 800.639.3809 or 509.996.3906; www.freestoneinn.com; winter rates: $100-$245).

Westin Grand
Vancouver, British Columbia
By SUE FRAUSE

Drive time from Seattle: 3 to 4 hours, depending on border crossing

Too many hotels, too few weekends. That's the problem with Vancouver, B.C. With the strong U.S. dollar and off-season rates, making a run for the Canadian border is a great winter sport—and the Westin Grand is an ideal spot to unwind. Located on trendy Robson Street, most of the Westin's rooms command impressive views, whether of the North Shore Mountains or English Bay and Stanley Park. Don't be surprised to see Rome's Colosseum out your window, either. The new Vancouver library is a kissin' cousin of the real thing. Just a few martinis away is historic Yaletown, a neighborhood of old brick warehouses that have been morphed into New York-type lofts, shops, restaurants and bars. Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks (1128 Mainland St.; 604.688.6755; www.bookstocooks.com) is jammed with chapters de cuisine and offers in-store-cooking classes. One of Yaletown's coolest new spas is Skoah (1011 Hamilton St.; 604.642.0200; www.skoah.com), specializing in smooth skin, melted muscles and "no whale music." Try the "Facialiscious," a deluxe facial that includes cleansing, exfoliation, extraction, massage and moisturizing—your skin will feel as soft as a baby's bum. When the dinner hour strikes, Lucy Mae Brown (862 Richards St.; 604.899.9199) is just around the corner from the Westin Grand. This restaurant/lounge is low-lit and retro with its deep purple booths, brick walls and turquoise blue chandelier. Enjoy a glass of Canada's Stag's Hollow Chardonnay while an Etta James tune plays in the background. Winter isn't all that bad. (433 Robson St.; 888.680.9393; www.westingrandvancouver.com;winter rates: $199 CAN-$429 CAN).

Avalon Hotel & Spa
Portland, Oregon
By SUE FRAUSE

Drive time from Seattle: 3 hours

What better place to spend a watery winter weekend than Portland's Avalon Hotel & Spa? The luxury boutique hotel opened at John's Landing a year ago, at the edge of downtown Portland on the banks of the Willamette River. Contemporary and calm in look and feel, this is a hunker-on-down, no-need-to-leave type of place. All 99 Pacific Northwest/Asian-inspired guest rooms feature marble baths and high-speed Internet access, while suites include fireplaces. Ask for a room with a river view: The 2002 Christmas Ship Parade (www.christmasships.org) brings a fleet of lighted ships to the Willamette River December 8 through 21.

And, if you do decide to leave your room, check out the hotel's 11-room spa. Among the favored menu items are the "Walk on the Rocks Pedicure," an 80-minute pedi that includes a gentle massage of the legs and feet with smooth river stones. Next door to the hotel is Rivers Restaurant, serving American-Pacific Northwest fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner (they also offer room service). Finally, if you're willing to venture even farther, for walks in the rain, just outside the door is Portland's Willamette Greenway Trail, a pedestrian-bike pathway that wends its way for miles along the riverfront. A complimentary town car will also whisk you to the Pearl District, 50 blocks of renovated industrial sites and chic new buildings, for a little sales-tax-free shopping. Check out Oblation Papers & Press (516 NW 12th Ave.; 503.223.1093; www.oblationpapers.com) for handmade papers, books, cards and writing apparatus, or step into one of the numerous galleries in the neighborhood, such as S K Josefsberg Studio (403 NW 11th Ave.; 503.241.9112; skjstudio.com), featuring vintage and contemporary photography. (0455 SW Hamilton Court; 888.556.4402; www.avalonhotelandspa.com; winter rates: $205-$650).

Cooper's Cove Guesthouse
Sooke, British Columbia
By SUE FRAUSE

Drive time from Seattle via Washington State Ferries from Anacortes to Sidney, B.C.: 6 hours

Cooper's Cove Guesthouse is not your grandmother's B&B. Located 35 minutes west of Victoria on Vancouver Island in the town of Sooke, B.C., this cozy inn embraces not only its view but also fine food. Perched on a craggy bluff overlooking Sooke Harbour and Basin, the contemporary guesthouse—with a community living room, dining room and a kitchen you'll want to take home—is home to Angelo's Cooking School. Chef Angelo Prosperi-Porta (member of Culinary Team Canada 1994, an honor bestowed upon top Canadian chefs by their peers) offers interactive dinners, afternoon cooking classes and three- and five-day cooking retreats. The "Chef's Table" package includes two to three nights' accommodations for two, gourmet breakfasts, a full afternoon cooking class and a five-course interactive dinner.

All four rooms at Cooper's Cove have water views, fireplaces, full en suite baths and amenities such as robes, slippers and homemade chocolates—but the most deluxe is Blue Heron, with its own private entrance and deck with hot tub. Weather permitting, take a walk or go biking on the Galloping Goose Trail, a 60-mile abandoned railway that runs right through the "front yard" of the guesthouse. Then relax in the hot tub and soak up Sooke in the winter. (5301 Sooke Road; 877.642.5727 or 250.642.5727; www.cooperscove.com; winter rates for the "Chef's Table" package: $351 CAN - $697 CAN).

A Taste of Alaska Lodge
Fairbanks, Alaska

Estimated travel time: 4.5 hours via one of Alaska Airlines' direct flights from Sea-Tac to Fairbanks, plus a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks International Airport to the lodge

Winter offers many wonders, but when push comes to shove, it's hard to beat Alaska's display of northern lights. Boasting an almost nightly aurora borealis show August 15 to April 15, Fairbanks is the place to go—and the aptly named A Taste of Alaska Lodge provides the perfect spot to watch the celestial display from the privacy of your own room. Situated on 280 acres that offer panoramic views of the Alaska Range and Mount McKinley, the lodge provides sweeping vistas from each of its 10 guest rooms as well as two private houses on the property and a heated facility that houses a hot tub. And just in case you need to jump out of your warm bed to be embraced by the magical light, each room has its own private entrance for better aurora access. When morning rolls around, indulge in a buffet breakfast while watching for moose, lynx and fox from the 7,000-square-foot main lodge. Other daytime activities include dog mushing, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing (bring your own skis; complimentary snowshoes are available at the lodge). And when it gets dark, relax with a glass of wine or beer and a gourmet meal as you gear up for another northern lights performance, courtesy of Mother Nature and Alaska at its best. (551 Eberhardt Road; 907.488.7855; www.atasteofalaska.com; winter rates: $175 for rooms in the main house; $200 for the two-bedroom log house with private hot tub; all rates based on double occupancy; $25 for each additional guest per room; breakfast included)

The Boatyard Inn
Langley, Washington
By SUE FRAUSE

Drive time from Seattle: 90 minutes

You don't have to own a boat to stay at the Boatyard Inn, Langley's "kid sister" to the Inn at Langley. Owned by Paul and Pam Schell, this Whidbey Island inn could be mistaken for an old waterfront cannery, with its corrugated metal roofs and colorful siding. In fact, it opened in 1994, and is a popular getaway for families (children are welcome). There are six studios and four lofts in the building—most of them directly on the water—and all are done up nautically in "Pacific Northwest Eddie Bauer" style. And, oh, those views. Private decks overlook Saratoga Passage, Camano Island and the Cascades in the distance. A working boatyard is on one side and a 30-slip marina on the other. They'll even give you a fishing pole to try your luck. Galley kitchens are outfitted for cooking, but if you venture a block up the hill there are a number of fine restaurants in downtown Langley. One of the newest spots for lunch and dinner is the Fish Bowl (317 Second St.; 360.221.6511). (Carnivores note: They do serve chicken and meat entrees, too.) Located in the Kitchen Shoppe, it also features an oyster bar. A fun and funky spot for a latte and breakfast/lunch is the Smilin' Dog Coffee House & Café (5603 Bayview Road; 360.321.7686), located four miles west of Langley at Bayview Corner (despite the name, you must leash your dog outside). Afterwards, stop in at Bayview Arts (across from the café; 360.321.8414), featuring art supplies and local fine crafts. The Bayview Farmers' Market is held Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Bayview Hall during November and December. Also at Bayview Corner, don't miss Whidbey Island's only public composting toilet, which is fast becoming a model for rural sustainable development. In a sense, it's a work of art, too. (200 Wharf St.; 360.221.5120; www.boatyardinn.com; winter rates: $125-$210).

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