Sue Frause

Great Winter Getaways - Seattle Magazine - 2001

Great Winter Getaways 2001

While "winter getaways" and "the Northwest" might not sound like a match made in heaven, we're here to tell you there are plenty of places in our own backyard that are scene-worthy—even in the doldrums of this gray season. And, considering the advantages of winter travel—rates are generally lower, traffic lighter, tourists fewer—this may just be the best time to see what these destinations have to offer.

We welcome the chillier days ahead with a look at 26 outstanding getaways, one for each weekend until summer returns. To help us find the top spots close to home (and a couple beyond the Northwest—for when you really have to get away), our best travel writers have selflessly gone into the field to ski, feast, shop and spa.

So read on. Then pack your bags and get going. Summer will be here before you know it.
By Sue Frause

Mt. Bachelor Ski Area In Bend, Oregon

Estimated driving time: 8 hours

This central Oregon city is the jumping-off point for Mount Bachelor, where you'll find wide-open bowls and tree-lined runs. If you're not a ski or snowboard bum, don't worry: Oregon Trail of Dreams (800.829.2442; www.sleddogrides.com) offers sled-dog rides at the mountain. The Inn of the Seventh Mountain (18575 SW Century Dr.; 501.382.8711 or 800.452.6810; www.7thmtn.com; Rates: $63-$265) is the closest accommodation to the ski area. The resort welcomes families and features a variety of room configurations, some sleeping up to eight people. The larger units feature kitchens or kitchenettes, so you can cook for yourself if you like. At end of the day, relax in one of two heated swimming pools or three hot tubs, or watch the kids take a spin on the outdoor skating rink. On the nights that you do dine out, you'll notice that Bend has more restaurants per capita than any other city in Oregon. Show up in your apres-ski wear at Deschutes Brewery & Public House (1044 NW Bond St.; 541.382.9242) for hearty pub food and microbrews.

The Rose River Inn Bed & Breakfast In Astoria, Oregon

Estimated driving time: 4-plus hours

Astoria is one of the Pacific Northwest's best-kept secrets. It's the place where the Lewis and Clark Expedition spent the winter of 1805-1806, at Fort Clatsop. Fortunately, these days there are a few better places to bunk down for the night. The Rose River Inn Bed & Breakfast (1510 Franklin Ave.; 503.325.7175 or 888.876.0028; www.moriah.com/roseriver; Rates: $75-$115), a pink (yes, pink!) 1910 bed and breakfast overlooking the Columbia River, is owned by the husband- and-wife team of Jaakko and Kati Tuominen, both from Finland. The River Suite, a favorite among the four guest rooms, has a private Finnish sauna. Pop in the shower; then, still wet, take a seat in the cedar-lined sauna, letting the heat permeate your body and open your pores. After a good night's sleep and a hearty breakfast that might include fruit, a smoked-salmon omelet with potatoes and even dessert (!) take a walk along Astoria's historic waterfront and stop by the Columbia River Maritime Museum (1792 Marine Dr.; 503.325.2323; www.crmm.org). If you're in town February 22 through 24, 2002, stop by the Wet Dog Café and Pacific Rim Brewing Company (144 11th St.; 503.325.6975) for the fifth annual Fisher Poets Gathering, where folks from around the Pacific Northwest read poems, spin stories and belt out salty sea tunes.

Granville Island In Vancouver, British Columbia

Estimated driving time: 3 hours

There is life beyond Vancouver, BC's Robson Street. Skip the big chain stores and spend a weekend on funky Granville Island. Located in the heart of the city, it's easily accessible by car or bus, and the city's passenger-only Aquabus boats. Once an industrial area, today the hub of this revitalized neighborhood is the Public Market, a colorful indoor market on par with Pike Place that features plenty of locally grown and exotic produce. There are also a number of theaters, artisan studios and hundreds of shops. Stop by Edie's Hats (Net Loft, 1666 Johnston St.; 604.683.4280) for charming chapeaux, or Paper-Ya (Net Loft, 1666 Johnston St.; 604.684.2531) for hard-to-find paper products from around the world. For dinner, try The Sandbar (1535 Johnston St.; 604.669.9030), a swank new seafood eatery where you can dine outside under the Granville Street Bridge—heaters and blankets provided. As for accommodations, The Granville Island Hotel (1253 Johnston St.; 604.683.7373 or 800.663.1840; www.granvilleislandhotel.com; Rates: from $75 US) added a new wing this fall, featuring 30 spacious rooms (including a number of penthouse suites). After a long day, enjoy the rooftop Jacuzzi and health club with city views through the skylights.

The Inn At Langley On Whidbey Island

Estimated driving time: 1 hour

If you happen to spot Seattle Mayor Paul Schell poking around the grounds of Whidbey Island's The Inn at Langley (400 First St.; 360.221.3033; www.innatlangley.com; Rates $215-$550, special midweek rate $175), don't call the cops. Paul and his wife, Pam, have been the proprietors of this upscale hostelry since its opening in 1989. The inn's 24 Asian-inspired surf- and sand-toned guest rooms all have water views of Saratoga Passage, outdoor porches, jetted bathtubs and fireplaces. Two new luxury cottages were recently added, along with the Essencia Spa (360.221.0991), where the "Transform" package lives up to its name with a steam, Essencia Facial with Aromawrap and 60-minute massage ($190). Innkeepers Stephen and Sandy Nogal offer a continental breakfast every morning in the open kitchen/dining room; on Friday and Saturday evenings, chef Stephen Nogal prepares savory five-course dinners featuring locally and regionally grown products. Best of all, the town of Langley is right outside your door, featuring art galleries, cafés, classy shops and a charming one-screen movie house called The Clyde Theatre (217 First St.; 360.221.5525; www.traxmaps.com/swi/clyde.htm), built in the 1937, the golden age of movie palaces.

An Art Weekend In Ketchikan, Alaska

Estimated flying time: 1 hour

Ketchikan has an annual rainfall of 155 inches a year—but don't let that scare you away. It's a fun and funky town, and only a one-hour direct flight from Seattle via Alaska Airlines. Winter in Ketchikan means no cruise ships—it's just you and the locals, and some great off-season arts events. Home to more than 200 artists, Ketchikan offers its Winter Arts Faire November 23 through 24, as well as Winter Art Walks. And February presents the monthlong Festival of the North and "Making Waves," the 16th annual wearable-art show (February 1 through 3, 2002), featuring dance, music and "wild wearable creations" by local and visiting artists. As for spots to rest your head, the WestCoast Cape Fox Lodge (800 Venetia Way; 800.325.4000; www.westcoasthotels.com; Rates: $129-$250) overlooks the city and has a cozy, ski-lodge feel. The lodge is accessible by tram from Ketchikan's kitschy Creek Street, built on pilings and once the town's red-light district. When mealtime rolls around, the Cape Fox Lodge does a nice job with seafood in its Heen Kahidi Restaurant (907.225.8001).

A Sunny Escape To Palm Springs, California

Estimated flying time: 2 hours, 30 minutes

Ruby Montana may have galloped out of Seattle a year ago, but she's back in the saddle—and sunshine—in Palm Springs. Her kitschy treasures live on at Ruby Montana's Coral Sands Inn (210 W Stevens Road; 760.325.4900 or 866.820.8302; www.coralsandspalmsprings.com; Rates: $79-$110), located in Old Las Palmas, "the Beverly Hills of Palm Springs." Each of the inn's seven rooms is filled with Ruby's favorite collectibles, such as a wagon-wheel lamp or cowboy painting, and all face the swimming pool. Ruby says she's had a "house full of Seattleites" during her debut year, and she even gives special rates for Emerald City residents. Palm Springs is a haven for great food. Upscale restaurants include Melvyn's (200 W Ramon Road; 760.325.2323) at the renowned Ingleside Inn (dark and elegant, with waiters in linen jackets and old photographs on the walls). It's just around the corner from the Fabulous Palm Springs Follies (128 S Palm Canyon Dr.; 760.327.0225; www.palmspringsfollies.com), a musical revue featuring "long- legged lovelies" 58 to 87 years young.

The Morgan Hill View Loft In Port Townsend

Estimated travel time: 2 hours via the Seattle/Bainbridge ferry or EdmondsKingston ferry

The locals simply call it "PT." More commonly known as Port Townsend, this Victorian seaport is a blend of the old and the new, the historical and the hip. If you're not the fussy B&B type, Morgan Hill View Loft (606 Roosevelt St.; 800.490.9070; www.morganhilldesign.com; Rates: from $135) is a refreshing and romantic alternative, with its private entrance and roof garden. Among the highest points in town, the loft's rooms offer a sweeping view of Admiralty Inlet from plush feather beds. A deep soaking tub, sitting room with sound system/VCR and in-room stocked breakfast are also provided. If you do have to escape this comfort, Lonny's (2330 Washington St.; 360.385.0700) is a romantic bistro with gourmet food. The 1907 Rose Theatre (235 Taylor St.; 360.385.1039; rosetheatre.com) shows art films and "selective" mainstream films on two screens (expect dandy décor and movie treats, too). And Port Townsend's Centrum organization, devoted to the visual/literary/performing arts, presents Chamber Music Port Townsend February 2 through 3, 2002, at the Joseph F. Wheeler Theater at Fort Worden State Park (800.733.3608; www.centrum.org).

Moonlight Snowshow Walks In Stehekin

Estimated driving time: 4 hours, 30 minutes from Seattle to Chelan via U.S. Route 2 over Stevens Pass

Walkin' in the moonlight in a winter wonderland. Sound sublime? It is. Moonlight snowshoe hikes are one of the highlights of a long weekend in Stehekin, a tiny hamlet nestled in the North Cascades on the shore of Lake Chelan. Getting there is half the fun, though. Take the Lake Chelan Boat Company "Lady Express" (1418 W Woodin Ave., Chelan; 509.682.4584; www.ladyofthelake.com) "uplake" from the town of Chelan to Stehekin. Two and a half hours later, you're in this remote community of about 95 year-round residents and one satellite pay phone. The North Cascades Stehekin Lodge (P.O. Box 457; 509.682.4494; www.stehekin.com; Rates: $69-$153) has cozy accommodations, a family-style restaurant and a small store. The lodge's "Moonlight Snowshoe Package" runs December 28, 2001, through March 31, 2002, and includes round-trip boat fare for two, two nights' lodging, one breakfast for two, snowshoes, transportation to and from the trails and a Saturday moonlight walk (packages start at $259 per couple). You'll crunch along in the dark with other hardy souls along the well-tromped trail, lit only by bobbing lamps and flashlights (moonlight isn't guaranteed). Thirty minutes later, a roaring campfire awaits you, along with s'mores, cocoa and hot spiced wine.

Isabella's Guest Suites In Victoria, British Columbia

Estimated travel time: 45 minutes via seaplane; 2 hours, 30 minutes via Victoria Clipper; 4-plus hours by car/ferry via Anacortes

What better way to warm up to winter than flying off to Victoria, British Columbia, for a long, luxurious weekend. The hordes of tourists are gone—it's just you and the locals. Check into Isabella's Guest Suites (537 Johnson St.; 250.381.8414; www.isabellasbb.com; Rates: from $135/night Canadian), two stylishly renovated self-contained suites located in the heart of Olde Towne. Housed in an 1887 building around the corner from Il Terrazzo Ristorante (it was voted Victoria's Favorite Italian Restaurant five years in a row) and Willie's Bakery (where overnight guests enjoy a continental breakfast), Isabella's is just blocks from Victoria's Inner Harbour. While in town, don't miss the Emily Carr exhibit at the Royal British Columbia Museum (675 Belleville St.; 250.387.3701; http://rbcm1.rbcm.gov.bc.ca), a retrospective of this Canadian artist's life. Also save time for a walk through Canada's oldest Chinatown. It's small but charming, particularly Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest street in North America. And just a few blocks away you'll find Silk Road (1624 Government St.; 250.382.0006), a combination aromatherapy and tea spa. The treatment rooms are nothing fancy, but my hour of deep-tissue massage therapy by Tamara was the best I've ever had (and a bargain at only $65 Canadian—approximately $41 U.S.). Later in the day, hit the Tapa Bar (620 Trounce Alley; 250.383.0013) in Trounce Alley next to Eaton's, a hip spot for appetizers or an entire meal.

Pure West In Ellensburg

Estimated driving time: 2 hours

Ellensburg is more than a cow town. It's also the home of Central Washington University—and a great little getaway called Pure West (7626 Manastash Road; 509.962.2125; www.ellensburg.com/~bb/PureWest/; Rates: $156/first night, $94/additional nights). This rustic two-bedroom cabin, owned by Missy Montana (yep, that's her name), is located 10 minutes west of town in horse country and surrounded by about 20 wide-open acres. It has a full kitchen, custom log furniture and what Missy calls "curiously creative" décor, much of it from Montana's downtown retail shop, Jaguar's (423 N Pearl St.; 509.962.6081). For dinner, try The Tav (117 W Fourth Ave.; 509.925.3939) for their yummy "Super Mother" cheeseburgers, not to mention a pool table and a pinball machine. Ellensburg's historic downtown district is home to the Ellensburg Bull, a massive bull sitting on a bench, by sculptor Richard Beyer, the creator of Fremont's Waiting for the Interurban. But the most whimsical art stop in town is Dick and Jane's Spot (101 N Pearl St.), where Dick Elliott and Jane Orleman display an amazing array of art—including 10,000 bottle caps—outside their home.

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